Conhecido como “Máquina Suíça”, Ueli Steck ganhou esse apelido após suas últimas conquistas.

Especialista em escalada solo de velocidade, recentemente (2009) bateu o recorde de menor tempo na escalada da face norte do Eiger. Steck finalizou a escalada em um tempo total de 2h e 47min. Para ele, escalar não é apenas um esporte, mas sim um modo de vida.
 

 

O Eiger

É uma montanha nos Alpes Suíços com 4.270 metros de altitude. A face norte possui 1.800 metros de subida. Veja o vídeo da escalada recorde que lhe rendeu a fama.
 

 

Feitos

Sua lista de conquistas é bastante extensa, mas o que mais impressiona é a quantidade de ascensões em uma mesma temporada, veja só a lista retirada do seu próprio site:

  • May 23, 2011 no Oxygene 8700 Meter
  • May 5, 2011 Cho Oyu 8201 Meter
  • April 17, 2011 Shisha Pangma (8027 Meter) Solo, Southface in 10.5h
  • March 25, 2011 Cholatse Northface 6440 Meter
  • August 9, 2010 Dolomite-Trilogy
  • June 2010 : Free climb of the route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitain USA; speed ascent of the route Nose on El Capitain in 3h 45 min.; The  Route Triple Direct in 7 hours also on El Capitain.
  • February 19, 2010: Sol new speed record on the Droite northface in 2 hours and 8 minutes. Prior record holder was French exceptional alpinist Christophe Profit in 2 hours and 30 minutes.
  • September 24, 2009 Summit success for Ueli Steck on Makalu (8463m) on the normal route. Unfortunately he could not succeed over the originally planned route over the west pillar, due to the very difficult conditions on the route.
  • July 10, 2009 Ueli Steck summits Gasherbrum II (8035m) on the normal route. It is his first peak over 8000 meters. He needs 14 ½  hours from camp 2 at 6500 meters to summit (8035m) and back to camp 2.
  • May 2009: Ueli Steck free-climbs on sight “Golden Gate” on El Capitan (5.13b, 41 pitches) and fell on only a single pitch onsighting the rest of the climb.
  • April 25, 2009: Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten are hounoured with the  „Piolets d’Or 2009“ for their first ascent in the alpine style of Tengkampoche Northface (6500m), Khumbu Valley, Nepal in April 2008.
  • January 13, 2009: Ueli Steck needs 1 hours and 56 minutes to climb the Schmid route on the Matterhorn. He finishes his long achieved project, to climb all three big northfaces in the Alps (Eigernorthface, Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn) in record times and solo.
  • December 28, 2008: Speed record on the Grandes Jorasses. Ueli Steck climbs the Colton-Macintyre route via the Alexis variant in 2 hours and 21 minutes.
  • September 26, 2008: Ueli Steck und Simon Anthamatten are honoured with the  „Prix Courage 2008“ for their courage and unselfish rescue action at the Annapurna on May 2008. They didn’t hesitate and helped two comrades in need.
  • 29./30 August 2008: First freeclimb of the new route „Paciencia“, the most difficult sportsclimbing route in the Eiger Northface. Length 900m, 27 pitches, difficulty 8a
  • May 30, 2008: Ueli Steck was honoured with the „Eiger Award“. This award has been given away fort he first time.
  • April 2008: while preparing for Annapurna Southface, Ueli Steck and his team mate Simon Anthamatten summit Tengkampoche climbing in a first ascent through Tenkampoche’s technical difficult and demanding northface (6500m), 2000m high, in Khumbu Valley, Nepal. They called this new route “Checkmate”. Difficulty: VI/85 degrees, ice M7+ / 6A0.
  • February 13, 2008: almost a year to the day since he first broke the speed record for climbing the North Face of the Eiger, Ueli Steck sets a new fastest time soloing the face in 2hr 47min 33sec.
  • February 2008: mental and physical perfectionism. Several routes free solo, such as Hot Tuna (7c), Schweizerhalle (7b+), combination Hot Tuna/Quasar 8a. All routes were climbed in the climbing region of Leen near Interlaken.
  • April 2007: during his acclimatization time for his Annapurna project, he climbed solo the West Face of the 7161m Pumori in only 24 hours up and down. His attempt to climb the Annapurna south face (8091m) on a direct route was stopped all of a sudden. A stone hit him straight on his head. He had to interrupt the expedition immediately.
  • May 2007: Ueli Stecks attempt to summit solo Annapurna Southface (8091m) on a direct route was stopped all of a sudden. A stone hit him straight on his head. He had to interrupt the expedition immediately.
  • February 2007: he sets a new record climbing solo the classic Heckmair route in 3h54minutes. He broke the old record, which was held by Christoph Hainz since 2003
  • July 2006:, Ueli summited with two companions the 7710m East Peak of Gasherbrum 2 after having completed the first ascent of Magic Line.
  • Early 2006: Ueli completed the second and this time solo ascent of his route “The Young Spider” on the Eiger. During 5 days, Ueli climbed through the Diretissima on the North Face.

About The Author

Mineiro radicado na cidade sorriso que, para quem não conhece, é Curitiba. Com 29 anos de idade, é formado em Engenharia Elétrica pela UFPR. Amante de tudo que envolve a natureza. Seus hobbies são: Paraquedismo, Montanhismo, Corrida, Ciclismo, Escalada (atualmente somente indoor) e principalmente viagens.

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